Le Petit Clocher du Portalet se situe sur la partie Suisse du massif du Mont-Blanc. Cette flèche de granite offre trois faces verticales extraordinaires. Chacune mesure environ 250 mètres et sa face nord est la plus impressionnante des trois.
Le Petit Clocher a été gravi pour la première fois en 1897 par les guides Maurice Crettez et Emile Revaz. Depuis lors, le Petit Clocher n'a cessé depuis d'être le théâtre d'exploits verticaux. Chaque génération de grimpeur y a trouvé un véritable terrain de jeu. Et l'aventure n'est pas terminée. Son granite franc et coupé au couteau, qui semble sortir tout droit de terre et qui n'a subit ni l'érosion des glaciers ni celle de l'eau, est ce qui caractérise le plus le Petit Clocher. Rares sont les autres lieux dans le monde à offrir un tel granite. Marco Pedrini a même eu l'audace de s'écrier, après la deuxième ascension de la voie "Etat de Choc" : "N'allez plus au Yosemite, mais courrez au Petit Clocher du Portalet !"
Le Petit Clocher du Portalet comporte une vingtaine de voies. Toutes ont leur exigence et leur caractère, bien que la voie normal soit largement accessible ainsi que l'une ou l'autre voie, dont la fameuse "sud-est". Ce site est dédié à ce Joyau des Alpes, au service de ce qu'il convient certainement de nommer "l'expérience du Petit Clocher".
02.08.23 Etat de choc - 7b variant ✅
aleksandrataistra last week has been a blast!!
After The Doors in Cadarese we decided to head towards Petit Clocher du Portalet despite the uncertain weather.
To climb Etat de Choc has been a big dream off mines since i first saw the Portalet almost 10 years ago. Cadarese was for me the best place to get prepared for this route!
Everything went smooth until the 7b pitch were i took a good fall, left a few pieces, got back down, had a quick break and climbed back up to send the pitch!
Thx aleksandrataistra and guillaumefetre for the 🍻🍻 and adventures!
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totemmt defi_montagne petzl_official
#tradisrad #offwidthskillsorhospitalbills #petitclocherduportalet #etatdechoc
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since the whole climbing community seems to be on the petit clocher du portalet these days i get reminded of this all time gem every time i open the app. for crack addicts and crack lovers this yosemite-esque monster called ‘etat de choque’ by the remy brothers is a must! go there, jam and squeeze as much as you can and experience the best day ever 👊🏼🫱🏻 scarpa_de #scarpa #scarpaclimb #crackclimbing #wideboyz #crackaddict #climber #petitclocherduportalet #etatduchoc #reclimbtheclassics #switzerland #alpineclimbing #tradclimbing ...
Snart på toppen av Petit Clocher du Portalet! Vi klättrade Nouvelle Ere, en av de ”lättare” turerna, men inget är särskilt lätt här 😂. Inte minst anmarschen från dalen, helskotta vad mycket sten det finns i bergen. Merci mathieuguebey pour la très bonne idée et une très belle journée!
#petitclocherduportalet #lovelasuisse #graniteclimbing #girlstothetop #viklättrar
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Another “red granit” weekend, this time touching two super lines:
- Etat de Choc - Petit Clocher du Portalet
- La Moquette ridge - Aiguille d’Orny.
Super glad to have now these places few kilometers from home 😃😃
With vit_spero and gioferruccio #climbing #rockclimbing #crackclimbing #switzerland #granit #cracks #adventure #petitclocherduportalet #training #summer #alps #mountains
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It`s almost two weeks ago that Christian and I finally made it to Petit Clocher du Portalet. What an amazing piece of granite in a stunning location.
I had been dreaming about climbing Etat du Choc for quite some time now, the first potential trip last year it was too cold and rainy, than earlier this year plans changed but this time finally we managed to get there!
I have to say I was overwhelmed by the climb. Every pitch was just so beautiful and hard😅. Despite being really challenged, I managed to onsight all the pitches of the left(7b) version. What a fight!
Unfortunately no pictures from the climb itself as my phone refused to function that day...
#climbing
#crackclimbing
#granite
#petitclocherduportalet
#iloveclimbing
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La perfezione del granito non smetterà mai di sorprendermi. Questo gendarme è un capolavoro 😍!
📸 Con Luchino aka il presidente su Ave Cesar ! ☺️✌️
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The perfection of granite will never stop to amaze me. This gendarme is a masterpiece 😍!
📸 With Luchino aka the president on Ave Cesar! ☺️✌️
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salewa lasportivagram petzl_official dinamiche_verticali sherpamountainshop albaoptics
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#petitclocherduportalet #granitespire #rockclimbing #jamming #mountaineering #salewapeople #puremountain #laspogirl #weareclimbers #accesstheinaccessible
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Splitter cracks, hands, fingers, ring locks, off width, face climbing. ‘Ave Cesar’ on Petit clocher du Portalet was a greater challenge than expected. It offers pretty much everything. After Etat de choc recently it felt quite tempting, to climb this perfect line. I got my ass kicked (think I did all the moves, except one) and redpointing still seems miles away for only a brief visit. I will be back next year for sure, since giving up is not my greatest strength 🤣Have been carefully listening to ninacaprez stories about her impresse onsight ascent back in the days, since we have been spending time together in Chamonix last weekend. Very inspiring. Thanks to caronorthofficial and almaestebanavalos for being such a good company up high in the wall. #tradclimbing #bealpine #petitclocherduportalet #womeninadventure ...
Ave Caesar 🇨🇭🗻
A few years have passed since I first met inespapert , at the time I was in Canada on an adventure journey I put myself through to heal from life events I faced the year before.
We didn`t know each other but she asked me questions, looked me in the eye, and cared for who I was and where I came from, she listened to my story and made me feel understood. The time passed, my climbing day was over and I was in a hurry to leave, but she encouraged me to give another try to my project, a project that had symbolic value for me, it was a project to push me to make the best out of myself.
I decided to give one last try and then, the magic happened, thoughts flew away, and every effort from my muscles was adding a patch to my soul, trying to explain what happened would be too long of a dissertation right now, so I will have to be content with the practical part of it: I sent my project, lowered down and wondered if she could feel how meaningful that had been for me, I felt convinced she was. I rushed to my phone to exchange numbers with the promise to try to climb again sometime somewhere.
And so the time was last week and the somewhere was Le Petit Clocher du Portalet.
Ave Caesar turned out to be a greater challenge than expected, this continuous finger crack demanded an impeccable technique of ring locks, an unbreakable trust in tiny edges, and the physical strength to withstand this effort for ages...
On the second day of work on the route our bodies and minds needed to have a rest at a lower altitude, and that`s when a mysterious strong bacteria that somehow sneaked into our systems gave a key side punch that successfully put us on the bench of the Petit Clocher arena, at least until the next year, when the next sometime will be.
Ave Caesar must certainly sent me back down with a fresh spirit a and a beautiful project to look forward too, and with it a journey full of things that I cannot even imagine now, just like I didn’t back in the day when I had a project in Canada. 💫
blumeenmx #rockwarriorsway #rockclimbing #petitclocherduportalet #tradclimbing #alpine
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Le Petit Clocher du Portalet, what`s to ❤️? Tick all that apply:
Immaculate granite ✔️
Striking lines ✔️
Strong features ✔️
Sustained routes ✔️
Big exposure ✔️
Stunning location ✔️
Cool summit ✔️
Sufficiently long and awkward approach to make sure it`s not too busy ✔️
More than a few of my favourite things 🇨🇭
We climbed Esprit de Clocher, Pilier Sud Est and Le Chic, le Cheque et le Choc, all absolute belters. And plenty to return for...
#alpinerock #petitclocherduportalet
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En estat de xoc...Així és com vam quedar després d` escalar el Petit Clocher du Portalet per " L` etat de choc", que bona! Una via amb regust "yosemític". Amb fissures amples, offwidths, encastaments i arrossegades de totes les mides. Una línia amb molt caràcter obra dels germans Remy. En teníem tantes ganes🙏 . I el Petit Clocher és una preciositat 😍 #petitclocherduportalet #montblanc #suisse #suissa #granit #granite #escalada #grimer #viallarga #multipitch #grandevoie #fissura #crackclimbing #offwidth #escalantpelmon tenayaclimbing vaudespain ...
Petit clocher du Portalet -
Etat de choc, var. 7b, OS ✅
With Mr. Zipka, Alpinist from Košice.
Probably the best crack route you can get.
Unfortunately, no hot water In Jacuzzi, once again!
Old dogs, New tricks!
#chamonix #alpine #style #crackclimbing #trad
#petitclocherduportalet
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Diving into Plato’s cave.
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#climbing_is_my_passion #climbingholidays #neverstopexploring #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #mountainlifestyle #picsoftheday #bestoftheday #nature #natgeo #natgeolab #alps #petitclocherduportalet #crackclimbingaddiction #crackclimbing #rappelling #shadows #mountainlovers #mountainphotography
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petit clocher du portalet (2.823 m) état de choc – a route that does not need an introduction. since i‘ve seen pictures of this majestic prow of perfect granite for the first time a few years ago, i’ve been dreaming of climbing it one day. first ascended by the infamous remy brothers back in 1983 one year before i was born, the route is still in its original shape with only six bolts on 280m of crack climbing. some claim it to be the best crack multipitch climb in europe and compare it to world-famous routes like astroman in the godfather of all crack-climbing valley, the yosemite. so far i can confirm, this route really blew my mind in all aspects. the climbing is super exposed and sustained, delivers all sorts of cracks, from perfect hands and fists to super hard overhanging offwidths and chimneys where you even have to remove your helmet to get through. the protection mostly has to be placed by yourself, so we almost brought a double rack of cams including the big boys C5 and C6, which can help you to calm down the nerves in the offwidth pitches. what an incredible climb - what an adventure! thanks tobi for sharing the rope #noplacetoofar #scarpa #scarpaclimb #alpineclimbing #reclimbtheclassics #alpinist #tradisrad #traddad #tradclimbing #alpinism #remybrothers #guide911 #amuerte #suisse #rockclimbing #etatduchoc #petitclocherduportalet #holygrail #cabanedorny ...